Enormous grounds with sculptures and lots of paths winding among the gardens and nooks. Calming afternoon. In the lobby is a work in which, standing in the right place, you can see 144 reflections of yourself.
After yoga at the Community Center ended at noon, I decided to give Chinatown a whirl. One wrong turn = learning a LOT about Honolulu streets, but made it to Chinatown and went to the Vietnamese Pho 97 in the historic Mendonca building. This is a photo blog about a different Pho 97, but the owners and dishes are the same. I got the beef rib-eye steak noodles described in the blog (seen in my own photo here), except the meat (red, just put in) was already in the bowl. My plate of bean sprouts, basil and chilies were just like in the blog you can click to. 
It was so good,even the bean sprouts were like nothing I've ever had and the soup was divine. Decided against pastries
, but did get rambutan (like lychees).
Afterwards, since the place was a block from where I usually go to the beach I hung out for a good bit of the afternoon with the other folks choosing the grass under the trees right on the beach. Then back for errands, including a finally successful treasure hunt for Poi Pancake mix and Coconut Syrup (a story in itself, but I cannot type any longer).
Why does Queen Emma's Summer Palace fascinate me so? Small, quickly seen, it is a place I cannot wait to go back to! That's a kukui tree on your right as you look up the steps. No photos of interior--but the calabash bowls are marvelous, all sizes, many very large. Used to store bed linen and clothes. The cradle, to only mention one piece of furniture, is astounding. The Hawaiian owl feather standards in the entry are worth a return trip.
The palace visit was only one piece of the day, though. It's Monday, so early morning yoga in the beach park under the palms. Stopped by Leonard's on the way to get malasadas (this is the haupia, coconut). Worth the wait! Ate two(!) on Waikiki watching the surfers after yoga was over.
Yellow hibiscus at Queen Emma's palace, biggest hibiscus I've seen (state flower). What a beauty!
Pali Lookout is only 5 minutes further, and even though the gray clouds were rolling in I went to see...and glad I took a sweater. Yes, the wind is strong. 
Sunday is a good day to walk on campus, and then jump in the car to go up to Manoa Marketplace for the farmers' outdoor market, and then a few doors down to the Manapua Factory shop for coconut Jin Dui (Chinese sesame balls) and mochi (pounded sticky rice balls) for breakfast with Kona coffee. Both of them had treasures of coconut at the center--so good! Also got some Dim Sum for lunch (menu here). Great cartoon on the subject from today's paper is here. Breakfast with the local paper, lunch with the New York Times. Ah, sweet Sunday.
But, at least it is cooler! The local Sunday Paper Travel Section is on . . . wait for it . . . Alaska! Talk about cool!
Asian lunch today! The potstickers were the fattest and tasiest I've ever had. 
Clouds aren't lifting so no Tantalus or Pali lookout today, but a delicious Asian lunch sort of makes up for it.
swung by Walmart downtown and easily was back in time for leftover Egyptian curry for lunch. In the afternoon I cooked the beets, and made Edamame Salad from a recipe in the paper and goodies from the Farmers' Market -- dried cranberries instead of currants. So delicious for dinner (2/22: I haven't cooked anything since)! But I was barely able to stand up by 4, though not so really tired. Had to lie down the rest of the day, except for dinner. Stronger, but still not able to make it through a whole day (2/22: still not; 2/23: did not get out of pajamas all day). Maybe more Being is in the cards?
This photo, taken on the quick, doesn't do justice to my charming friend, Don--sorry, Don (who was about to tell me something!) He's my good (translator) friend from Kitano-cho, in town now, and we went for brunch to Eggs 'n Things where he's been a regular for 20 years. Their photo page shows non-Japanese tourists, but it was almost exclusively Japanese tourist clientele when we were there (and a lot of the time). Super good (cheap--this is Waikiki!) food. Kona coffee is their "regular"--lucky me. We hung out the rest of the afternoon cruising Ala Moana Beach and then swung over to his condo on the 42nd floor with the killer views of Honolulu from Tantalus Mountain to Diamond Head. It was a really fun day!
Don's gift: Punahou Carnival Mango Chutney! Something like 10,000 jars sell out in the first 2 hours! Burleigh's daughter Linda had lamented that she was a little too late to get any (having come from Santa Fe!) and Don had no idea mango chutney is in my top-5 food favorites. I'll hand-carry this with me! Thanks so much, Don!!
did I buy an apron (because I forgot mine)
Today I went to Kailua, directly north from Honolulu on the Windward coast for an appointment there. To my surprise, the drive took only 20 minutes through a cool rainforesty canopy of green. Passing through two tunnels, the vista opened on a distant view of Kailua and the blue ocean. After my appointment, I went to Kailua Beach, said perhaps the best in the world with its powdery white sand, its immensity, its crystal blue ocean. And lots of shade! May be worth the quick drive to go the beach there! Plenty of easy parking, non-clogged highway, small town feel.....and, yes, the bumper-to-bumper return from work in Honolulu traffic I saw on the way back showed how many people were willing to drive for the simple beauty of Kailua.
Went to early morning yoga class in the park next to the Aquarium on Waikiki. 
Having forgotten to water the cat, then forgotten my purse, my third re-departure was the charm and I was just a bit late. Joined in and stretched out. Only Mondays from 8-9 a.m. View of palm trees from yoga position was restful! Walked down Waikiki to get a coffee, and caught a few rays on the beach along the way. Holiday today so lots of groups and grills, even at 9 in the morning!
Piha seemed glad I got back around lunchtime with various supplies for her gleaned from one end of Honolulu to the other. 
While putting things where they were needed for her, I did glimpse a lizard like the ones always on the walk outside sprinting across the back room and sure enough, a few minutes later here came Piha with her prize. No, she did not want to relinquish it. And yes, dear readers, I didn't post the photo with the full prize on display, but if there is demand to see it......can do! To give her a treat after having her prize taken from her, she got to go outdoors for as long as she wanted. I dogged her steps, if one dogs the steps of a cat, since if she ever got out of my sight I'd faint.
During my lucky Walmart stop (downtown/has parking garage!) for Piha's supplies that were not in stock the last four times I tried, I found what she needed and also got myself a cool little lunch bag for beach days (it looks huge here, but it can hold a sandwich and a drink). Now, I can stay and stay and stay on the beach of my choice! Discovered there is lots of shade on Waikiki, so may add some more beaches. Beautiful day but I am oomph-less, so taking it easy in the house.
In the end, I was glad of my previous reservation to visit Shangri-La today, since quiet and beauty seem what I need now, more than rush and din. Doris Duke, whose father, J.B., invented the paper-rolled cigarette and bankrolled Duke University, was the wealthiest woman in the world for a good while. She created a dream house that was top-to-bottom her own work of art. A majority of treasures were found at auctions all over the world, but these camels, stationed at the unassuming entrance to the house, were bought at a Honolulu department store. You can see beautiful pictures, including the bedroom and bathroom which we couldn't visit, at the Web site (link above). I put four of my photos on Flickr so they could be seen BIG (click on each one to enlarge it).
The living room features an Otis Elevator window that slides completely down into the full basement (they opened this window for us!). Miss Duke usually kept it halfway open because of the many dogs (from the pound!) she owned. Every room has a fireplace, and they were used. The basement, unusual for Hawaii, kept pieces of art, or remnants of fabric like what was used on ceiling and walls of the dining room to make a tent effect. 
When the house was uncared-for during the 9 years of will litigation, this blue-and-red striped ceiling and wall fabric rotted, but she had kept the leftover in the basement so it was all re-created. Doris Duke recycled, kept everything. Many of the floors are crushed coral from the hollowed-out private harbor, now part of public access as these local boys are enjoying. An avid and skilled surfer, she also had a one-person sailboat she launched here.
The master bedroom wing is not open to the public. Miss Duke didn't keep a diary or journal, nor did she have a close friend or confidante. Her father had taught her not to trust anyone, and since he died when she was 12, she stuck with that early advice. She also wanted her own space--the staff, very well taken care of, had little interaction with her. I'm sorry I didn't see Susan Sarandon starring in the movie about Doris Duke shown on HBO earlier this month.
I love this balcony across from the bedroom wing. Everything in the house was detailed and exquisite and mixed and matched (French baroque ceiling in the Turkish Room). On a short hallway wall, an unusual mixing of tiles features one empty hole with the plaster showing through. Miss Duke was still deciding on this one when her final illness took her to LA and the hole's been left unfilled.
What she called her "playhouse" had guestrooms and a large living room with her piano, as she was an accomplished jazz pianist. She also loved yoga and belly dancing, as well as designing every bit of Shangri-La. The saltwater pool (16 feet deep) is refilled every Monday morning. The diving board was hydraulic, so it could be lowered like the living room window and give a living-room-lanai feel from the house to the playhouse.
My outfit matched a good bit of the decor, and I felt glad, since just being inside the house was unforgettable. This picture was taken during our drink-of-water break on a lanai, but it was raining so we couldn't go into the garden. We moved in groups of 10, so could ask questions and it all went too fast. One woman was there for the fourth time! I can see why.
It is a magical place...if you look closely at the red walkways in the Mughal Garden, they look like they rise in the middle in a little peak, but they are perfectly flat. Like the whole house and grounds, they're a feast for the eyes.
Swim Suit Doubles as HeavyHands
Fresh Tofu To Be Had
Day started early with walk to Credit Union--an hour through the U of Manoa campus and then old residential area back here (some houses have Historic Residence plaques!)--and no, CU will not cash the check made out to "Kay Vreeland"--no such legal entity. But that is a great walk--could become a regular. Quick did chores and Piha got her greatly desired time in the yard.
Headed out to park at Ward Center and take the bus to Iolani Palace for the 125th Coronation Commemoration -- goose-bumpingly fabulous. We got fancy programs with photos-- 
full 1-1/2 hour ceremony in the coronation pavilion that's been there since 1883) and there was a 21-gun salute, famous music (Kalakaua March is my favorite--so perky and fun!). Princess Abigail Kinoiki Kekaulike Kawananakoa herself who came out to the Rolls Royce in front of where we were lined up to visit the Palace (and I only got some attendants photos!), 
and the ladies in white with kukui-nut necklaces (yes, I had mine on!). Women had feather leis, and men had long leaf strings hung around their necks--easy to tell the VIPs!
We then got our free entry to the palace to see the throne room, but most especially the coronation gems and medals (my very favorite is the tiger's claw necklace!!--not shown) 
At Borders Books the sales were worth it--just what I wanted for $4 and $5--went for a coffee on the terrace; when the barista asks, "Do you want that Americano hot?" you know you are in Hawaii!
After Monday's wonderful day of beach + girly shopping, routine errands easily ended with Hawaiian tapas and a glass of (cheap) California champagne. The Salmon (or Ahi) Poke costs almost nothing (well $2), the ikura is on tap, edamame salad keeps well, and the delicious beets are so good alone I have not used the ingredients I've collected for my renowned Beet Salad (basil, capers and yellow pepper figure therein). A long morning, started early to get free parking at Sans Souci Beach (OK, with a hot dog at 11), afternoon at Ala Moana Shopping Center (obligatory stop in Makai Market Food Court). Success at last with my long-long-held list of 3 items: face cream (desperate), high-neck bathing suit (so hard to find), and waterproof keys/ID/cash case (for the single girl): scored all three. The lava-lava on which they are displayed is my friend's and I rack my brain for what I can trade her for it (assuming it does not have special meaning to her!). The pants were the only ones in "my" color left on the sale rack ($12), and ABC stores had the waterproof valuables case. Good haul! 
Procrastination can be very valuable; I took my time getting to daunting/huge Ala Moana mall; lo and behold, from today the face cream came with 2 gorgeous (free/full) goodie bags, zip hung with Eiffel Tower (the cool Maui bag is from the swim suit shop)! So, with shopping now in the bag, so to speak, Iolani Palace, Queen Emma's Summer Palace, my two favorite museums, and the Botanical Gardens beckon. Stay tuned.
My good friend, Burleigh, now 92, is moving back to the mainland and I visited her yesterday in her stripped apartment -- everything went with the movers the day before. Lovely Burleigh, so on top of things and ready for the next adventure. I hope I turn out like that at 92!
